A few days ago , we went on a train trip .We were counselled against ( it is going to take a long time , they said ) , made to fear (You will be very tired at the end of it ) , and frankly paranoid ( you will fall sick due to the train food ) . People wishing well threw up their hands in exasperation . Who , in today's time and date travels by train ? People thought we were misers , or mad , or both . Possibly , they were right too .
The dividends took some time to reveal themselves. At the boarding platform, the usual chaos ensued. The train is on time, and arrives half an hour early for the passengers to board .
The noise and the crowd of the station melting away in the quiet, AC cooled comfort of the berths . Having shoved our luggage underneath our seats , we took a stock of the world outside our window.
And that is when you see a panorama unfold which is never to be seen on a two hour flight .
As Dalai Lama said " Once a year , go someplace you have never been before . "
We were crossing most of these places , ensconced in our comfort of a first class coupe , but we" saw" it nevertheless .
In geographical sense , the train like a scalpel , sliced through the nation's tummy . lengthwise . We started at the nation's capital and traversed the distance of 2,731 kilometres and crossed 8 states , culminating at Krantiveera Sangoli Rayyana, a station whose name , besides being unfamiliar to most fliers , is as similar and as different in the same breath, as chalk and cheese.
Unlike visceral surgeries , we did not descend into some deep dark labyrinth of doom . We hooted across verdant fields , rattled through dense forests , certainly frightening some wild animals , and swept through dusty scrublands . Numerous bridges beat a reassuring tattoo of wisdom , and tunnels filled our hearts with cold despair . Small stations wailed as we sped past , not stopping at their doorsteps .
The soil colour , began at fertile khaki and brown at the Hindi belt , changed into black igneous rocky soil of the deccan Plateau , then converted to red laterite of the valley , occasionally sandy of the near beach soil .
The crop variety and abundance followed . We left the Haryana region in an abundance of paddy crops , lush green , just about changing to yellow straw and drooping ears of grain.
That was on the first evening, and then after having hot food, we slept off and woke up to a totally different vista .
The fact that we were not moving in a straight line , or that the state borders were not strictly straight was brought home by the fact that at night , we stopped at Agra Cantt , which is in UP . Next stoppage was at Gwalior , which is in MP . In the morning , we found ourselves at Jhansi , which is again UP !!!!
We were supposed to cross Jhansi at early morning , but luckily the train was an hour late , so we saw the station in its glory .
At Jhansi , around mid morning , after our upma and bread omelette breakfast , we peered over our steaming paper cups of tea , his milky , mine black , and saw a huge bronze statue propped up on a platform on a hillside . A quick google search revealed this to be a statue dedicated to Maj Dhyanchand , the legend , still poised to drive the hockey puck into a goal on the rustic slope . Apparently , he hailed from Jhansi .
We had carried bread and tomatoes with us , a knife , and salt in a tiny plastic container . The ecstasy of eating a freshly made tomato sandwich in a moving train is wholly underrated . For our further journeys with kids , I had bought some cheese slices along too , much to the joy of the dairy lovers .
Huge black boulders sat like slumbering giants with ever so slight brushing of green on top . It seemed as if they would awaken with a shudder and a startle at the touch of a wand or utterance of a magic spell .
After Jhansi , came the bustling station of Bhopal , the state capital of MP!! After having played hide and seek with two states , the train finally decided not to confuse us any further and politely entered Maharashtra at Nagpur . Nagpur lies right next door to Madhya Pradesh and is famed for oranges . On cue , we crossed huge orange orchards , the leaves glistening in the late morning sun , the largish shrubs , in tidy rows , upon rows , the earth bald and baked and bereft of any weed around their trunks .
Between Nagpur and Balharshah , the only other stoppage at Maharashtra , we crossed several forested areas .Large leafed teak wood tree , also called sagwan , grow plentifully . The plantations , though maintained on either side of the train track , still gave out definite forest vibes .
There were places , where the trees had been felled and the timber laid in neat heaps for transportation . Even the railway station boasted of a statue of a tiger pouncing on a deer and there were green jungle paintings on the walls . Wildlife peeking out from behind large leaves , Tinkle fashion .
Next stop was Kazipet .
Kazipet was in Telengana . It was a real eye opener . The entire facade of the station had been done up in shiny tiles .There were huge white marbled domes of some Masjid or Peer Baba Mazar , which overshadowed the stationed . Gleaming white in the sun , it provided a stunning backdrop. The floor was clean , with no littering anywhere . Neat benches , dustbins and general cleanliness of the place is striking . There are vendors , but they are not rushing around . In general , the place gives a vibe of quiet , understated prosperity and discipline . I had never heard of this place , and I am glad I was fortunate to see it , even if just the station .
" It wasn't a strange place , it was a new one . " Paulo Coelho.
Another quick search on the internet revealed the importance of this city in the state of Telengana , as a part of tricity ,alongwith Warangal and Hanmakonda .It is also a major junction for trains from North going southwards ( such as ourselves ) ,an educational and manufacturing hub .
Besides , it has a has an interesting past . A Sufi Saint ( biabani ) did his penance in the caves of the place , during the reign of Asaf Jah II(early 19th century ) hence the name .
Igneous rocks , formed millions of years ago , due to unrelenting volcanic activity, weathered into black soil , unfit for most crops except one . Green patches of cotton plants elbowed their way into the rocky landscape ,already bearing velvety white fluffs, where the fruit had burst through.
A remarkable thing was rows upon rows of pigeon pea ( arhar) plants that grow in between the cotton. Apparently, pigeon pea fixes nitrogen into the mineral starved soil and the hardy stems of the legumes provide a windbreak of sorts to growing cotton crop.
At places where the legume had been harvested , the stems were arranged into a conical heap , to be used later as stakes for fencing, as fuel or simply as a raw material for a skeleton of a thatch roof.
In Andhra Pradesh- Karnataka , we saw fields upon fields of sunflower plants . Brilliant yellow orange flowers , praying in unison to that life giving golden orb we all venerate . Some twisting their thick necks to follow an ancient plant behaviour still bewildering the scientists . The bright yellow fields get a dark green border of either flax or sorghum . Flax plants are small , whereas Sorghum occasionally towers over the sunflowers , like aggressive bodyguards for pretty maidens .
Then came Papaya orchards . This is the first time I saw papaya orchards . In such profusion as to take your breath away . The trees were too small , and not yet able to bear fruit , but looked promising . In six months time , I am sure , all of them will be laden with the green turning to yellow orange fruits , bunched beneath a canopy of leaves that look like bohemian fairy skirts , scalloped and fringed .
As we rattled past these , we saw coconut plantations . Incredibly tall , up to twenty feet of smooth trunk, covered in ringlets , topped with drooping hippy haired large fronds . The leaves , bunched up at dizzying heights , hide the bounty of round , yellow -green coconuts . Some villages had huge mounds of coconut husk , leaves and trunk . Every part of the coconut plant is utilised .
It is amazing to see human enterprise at this scale , coaxing such wondrous crops out of a land that heaves , protrudes , and negates all efforts to tame it .
That said , there post monsoon carpet of greenery was evident everywhere . In and around black boulders even , threatening to drown them in places .
The huge boulders grow into gargantuan outcroppings that have to be burrowed through , in order to build a railroad . So , the Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka area have large numbers of electrified railway tunnels . Ours being a Rajdhani train , we thundered through the dimly lit cavernous stretches , screeching and rattling away .
Next major stop was Secunderabad .
Once again , it doesn't disappoint . Clean shiny tiled floors , newly built signages , huge dustbins and freshly whitewashed walls . Littering is minimal , but more crowded than Kazipet . Even Secunderabad falls in Telengana , which is a recently formed state , broken away from its parent Andhra Pradesh .
Two of my college friends live here , but we weren't stopping here ,so it is futile to even think about them . Another futile task which the heart indulges in ( and the brain balks at ) is to search for their likenesses in the crowds on the station. So foolish .
Medu Vada is a favourite snack here . Dunked into piping hot sambar and served in thermocol bowls . Then you wage war on them , armed with a fragile wooden spoon .
Despite having had the train lunch , we couldn't resist hot vadas . Who can ?
Another important stoppage of Guntakal was missed in the darkness of the night.
As a matter of fact that it is very easy to fall of asleep in a train . The clackety clack lulls you into a stupor , the moment your head hits the pillow . The time of the day is immaterial .
The train continued to play hide and seek with the state borders . we snaked to Karnataka at Raichur , entered Andhra Pradesh at Guntakal , and thundered back into Karnataka at4AM in the morning .
We were regurgitated out by the long running tired train at KSR , and we joined the throngs leaving the platform for the Metro station .
We disappeared into the vast ocean of humanity .
To quote " You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world " .