Friday, 10 April 2026

An auto ride to remember

 A thick mane of hair faces us . The locks curl up to the base of the neck in a fetching, well oiled , well combed fashion . It is also caressed lovingly by the right hand, which has three glittering gold rings adorning three fingers . The forefinger, the thumb and one other finger . It is difficult to keep track of the finger as we are careening down a road full of the usual humanity and their detritus, which one encounters in every Indian road .

There are numerous obstacles, women in chador, shuffling across, urchins darting in between adults legs , playing a dangerous game of either chase or hide and seek. 

Blind beggars straying into the main street , with arms outstretched, a doleful dirge on their lips. A shriek later , wide eyed and panting , they curse profusely , but we are out of earshot by then . 

A man in impeccable suit and tie . talking on phone , athletically dodges , and raises his fist aggressively , as seen in the rear view mirror . The driver chuckles . We can see his shoulders shake .

We cross giant cut outs of his inspiration , a moustachioed  , well built , south Indian movie star . A cigarette hangs limply from his fleshy lips . smoke rising in thin wisps , he is wearing an auto driver's khakis , sleeves rolled to display shining , bulging biceps , on which is balanced a tiny auto , daintily landed and almost missed like a yellow and black hornet . 

The driver bows , acknowledging the greatness of the wasp bitten , biceps wielder . 

In our country  , movie fandom is crazy . We take hero worship to a whole new levels . The movie stars  are venerated like Gods and have temples made after them . 

I wonder what happens to these temples once some scandal ( with unerring regularity, very paradoxically ) breaks out , concerning these "Gods" .

At bends , we cling to the rods provided above our seats , for this exact purpose . To prevent Passengers from being jettisoned out into the gravel and the dust . A lighter human would have been swept off his or her feet . Thank God for body weight .

At bends the three wheeler becomes a two wheeler , and we are dosed with the exact amount of adrenaline that formula one drivers possess when they " drift " . A drift is not to be messed with , as pariah dogs languishing in shallow pools discover much to their chagrin . Quick reflexes save them and we are followed by raucous barks . More shoulder shakes , more mirth . 

Our plaints of " bhaiya  dheere chalo / abhi bahut time hai " is met with stoic silence / stone walling / linguistic incomprehensibility . In other words , entreaties fall on deaf ears . 

Fervent prayers for our destination ( Railway station ) to materialise out of thin air , like the famous room of requirement in harry potter is answered and a cream and gold dome is seen rising in the distance . Several rapid swivels around bulls permanently seated like a living statues in the centre of the road ( now the driver curses , and smoothens his hair again ) , a hasty greeting shouted to a fellow auto wallah , a fellow monarch of the "kingdom of roads " , a heave of the bucking auto later , we have , incredulously stopped . 

We walk on jelly legs as we have been floating around the city , on a carpet of wishes , driven by a crazed khaki wearing genie , and  the terra firma feels mildly strange. 



Tuesday, 30 December 2025

Complaints

 So , it is a cold , wintry , windy day and you have been apprised of a perfectionist better half about a flush not working , an inlet pipe leaking and that a "complaint " has been launched and that people from the notoriously inefficient plumbing services are due to arrive midmorning .

Now , I have learnt a great deal about the anatomy and functioning of flushes , commodes , and facilities ever since we moved into this house . 

Something or the other always seems to malfunction . It is tragic ( for the residents and repairers ) , hilarious ( for a third party viewing from the outside ) , and irritating (for all) . 

Two weeks ago , we noticed a continuous stream of water falling from the WC into the commode . So , the plumber was called and the leak stopped . The leak stopped to the extent that the WC stopped filling up adequately . 

A complaint was raised again . Two over enthusiastic and ill informed individuals ( not plumbers ) got to work . They disconnected every possible pipe and reconnected it back again . Now the inlet pipe was leaking and the ball valve was found irrevocably twisted ( See what over enthusiasm does to lives and ball valves ) 

Another complaint has been raised . Ball valve and inlet pipe changed . 

Now the WC is not leaking from the inlet pipe , but into the commode , while refusing to fill up fully . 

Hence back to square one . 

In the meanwhile , we had several other complaints . Seepage on several walls , including the upstairs neighbours , water trickling down from the sides of pipes , seeping into walls , creating fungal patches everywhere . 

The largest patches are in the bedroom , where the severity of winter causes a very real fear of sinus inflammation and fever and malaise . 

In fact , people have been falling sick with alarming regularity . 

So much for a brand new house . 


Sunday, 21 December 2025

Girls' college

 Girls' colleges in India suffer from a variety of malaise . 

To keep the girls "safe" , you have to keep them in covers . The quintessential quandary of burqa. How does a woman live and breathe in a world full of lecherous glances / thoughts/ people / vermin ? 

Malaise number one: in order to keep "vultures" from circling, they are located very far from the main road . So Google maps will take you off the National Highway, onto a single road , amid trees and foliage , nestled deep in the pind ( rural area ) , thereby making it all but inaccessible. Not just for the " vultures" but also for the girl students . 

Number two: the faculty should comprise of mainly women for obvious reasons . Plus the grade four and house keeping staff too . 

Isulate , if you can't insulate, at least pretend to. And cushion. Appoint old men as bus drivers , khalasis , chaprasis , gardeners . Of course, the principal should be a lady. 

I am in  one such college. A certain exam is being held here . 

That is all it is used for right now.

Examinations .

It no longer imparts any education to anyone . 

The college died during COVID when it was shut down. Some deaths in the senior faculty, drying up of funds and the college went belly up. 


Saturday, 20 December 2025

My father Giani ji

A speck of blue turban

in a sea of unfamiliar faces

and i knew i was home.


Tall , majestic, greying

and eyes that breathed

compassion


attending to everyones needs

simultaneously

lending an ear here

and a hand there



hands broad knuckled, gentle

patted aberrant babies to sleep

mended broken toys

wrote countless documents

turned pages ; held hands

lifted babies ;fixed leaking taps

chopped onions

and prayed



brow ever so white

and pure



a smile ever so genuine

a laughter ever so true

a speech ever so profound

a heart ever so full of

love and warmth



whence forth the time materialised

to help grandchilren with their home work

to help grand mother in the kitchen

to make family videos

to assist grown up sons in their paper work

in their family

to arrange for weddings and funerals

to never forget any birthday or anniversary

to give and give some more





To be there for everyone

to be transformed into a real ,

breathing benediction ; an angel

in human form


to depart

when everyone

is fast asleep

a pat here; a sheet gently pulled

there

a softly spoken goodbye



that is how

the man who i call

my father

lived

and died.


Thursday, 4 December 2025

A winter lesson

 Harbouring a dream is a dangerous thing 

It bites , kicks , roasts , and stings

Above all, possibly most importantly 

It won't let you slump , slouch and die 


It will keep you alive, clicking 

Keep your tiny clock ticking 

But yourself you'll keep kicking 

If you lag behind, you'll be sighing 


Wring your hands, pick on your flaws 

Know yourself, friends and foes 

No one can help you, no one will 

For its all in your mind, be still 


Above all, welcome stillness 

In a chaotic world of silliness 

Of this and that, rights and wrongs

All your  unspoken thoughts,unsung songs


Free yourself from shackles of what if 

Life is a main course, no appertif

You have lived okay, come this far 

On a wintry morn, leave the door ajar 


Listen to the chill draught chortle 

The freeze , the shiver, the luften 

A lesson from nature, we learn 

To pass into oblivion, the green 


With silence and grace and quietude 

Let your work ( if you have any) , prelude 

Speak up for you, like fallen leaves 

Frozen ground, dripping wet eaves 


Sunday, 30 November 2025

A rainy night road trip

 It was the month of March. In the fag end of the Indian winter . The sweaters have not yet been abandoned and summer hasn't fully arrived. 


Mornings were still cool with dewy grass and light breeze. 


We lived at our grandfather's home which was roughly 20 kms from our school . 

The last ten kilometres were on the highway and were easily crossed by vehicles of all sorts. The first ten involved crossing two small seasonal streams on  a bullock cart . 


My grandfather was a zamindar ( a landowner). Though we had a rented house close to school, where we stayed during our school days, we were enjoying our end of the session holidays and we all had packed up and moved to the ancestral home in the village. 


This day, 31 st of March 1979 was momentous for several reasons. My brother,my sister and I had all  been promoted to higher classes . My brother was to start classes in class eight, my sister in class six and me in class four. Dadu ( my grandpa) took us all to school , despite it being a holiday, for two reasons . 

We were supposed to collect our report cards and collect whole sets of new notebooks and books and other sundry stationery items.

My grandmother had also given a list of groceries to be bought from the town 

She had also given a brand new cotton bag , dyed with raw indigo , for carrying the new books and note books. 

The day started off bright and fruitful. We had all got distinctions in our respective classes and our sisters ( nuns from the convent school we attended) were mighty pleased with us . 

My brother, being the eldest amongst all three of us, gave a small , impromptu inspirational speech to all my classmates, me being the youngest in the family. My friends clapped and my heart swelled with pride . 

We also had to rush to the tailors , to give measurements for our new uniforms and then Dadu took us for a treat to the most famous sweetmeat shop in the town . We gorged on balushahis , boondi ladoos , piping hot spicy  samosas , washed down with cups of scalding sweet milk tea . Life was good. 

Dadu , being a respected citizen, always had dedicated rickshaw wallahs to ferry him around in the town. Today it was a person called Bilal . Bursting with all the purchases, good food and vibes , we four  squeezed into the thin reccine seat meant for two . We doubled up , a common practice those days , and Bilal got to work . 

It was late in the afternoon , and clouds had been gathering since morning . The entire day , in our excitement of getting new books and uniforms , we never noticed the weather .

Now we sat in the gathering darkness, noting glumly, the stuff breeze and the thunderstorm building up . 

Apprehension and worry lining his forehead, Dadu urged Bilal  to go " phataphat"( chop chop) . It was not an easy task . There were four of us , with load of books and sundry purchases and the poor cycle tubes groaned and squeaked on the tarmac. 

Dadu , being the Bengali patriarch, wore his dhoti and kurta, while my brother wore shorts and we sisters wore frocks . Needless to add , all these clothes were crinkly and new , ironed crisp for the occasion . 

Now , as the raindrops pelted us , we all could feel the damp soaking through and turning our clothes soggy. Dadus see through dhoti clung to his legs .

Bilal had rolled his dirty white pyjamas into a shorts of sorts, which was steadily getting wet.

Dadu had implied to Bilal, right at the beginning of the journey that , he is not to stop , at any cost, come rain and thunder. 

Now, as the rain beat mercilessly down , and thunder crackled,deafeningly rolling across the skies, the road turned into a shiny white , lonely rivulet . My sister, B , is just two years older to me, but every inch the fierce mother. We clung to each other, occasionally wiping rivulets of rainwater from our face with our palms . My brother huddled together. 

This section of the highway ran through the country side , and would be mostly bereft of traffic after dark. On a wet twilight like today's, there was scarcely anyone on the road. The trees lining the street swayed this way and that with the thrashing winds , like drunken giants . 

In addition to the havoc wreaked by the weather, this was the decade of 70s, when lonely stretches of roads could quickly become a scene of petty theft, robbery or worse . 

No way Dadu would let any danger befall  three children he loved more than anything else .

He urged Bilal on and on , shouting above thunderclaps  . On one occasion, the naive Bilal abandoned us on the side of the road and ran to take shelter under a date palm tree. Dadu shouted at him to return immediately. 

We were born in the countryside and we knew that it was a terrible idea . One, because lightning is more likely to strike you under a tree ( as it seeks the heights of tree tops ) , secondly the date palm offers no shelter and thirdly ( this is mildly debatable), date palms harbour  ghosts of road accident victims . 


Bilal ran back and we proceeded on , bravely in face of slashing rain and whipping wind . 

By now, we were all fully drenched and had given up the pretense of clinging to the rickety wooden frame of the overhead sunshade , a flimsy cover in rickshaws, mostly used to keep the sun out . 

At the village bus stop, we were greeted by umbrella wielding people from our village.  They had been waiting there since noon, as my grandmother had sent them to pick us up early . 

No one expected this delay . 

It was already eight PM and the bus stop mandir had closed for the night . Dripping wet, we waited for the bullock cart to come round to the front of the temple . 

All of us , wet and tired , were bundled into the bullock cart, which, though padded on the sides and bottom with rice straw and bags of husk , was still very uncomfortable . 

Every step taken by the bullocks , threw you in a new direction, against the Bamboo frames of the sides , or the roof . However, the downpour has reduced to a steady drizzle , and the roof being adequately airtight, we were protected against the elements. 

Twice, while crossing the rain fed  rivulets , the bullocks threw their yoke off and had to be put on by much whipping, cursing and cajoling by hardy workmen in wet dhotis and pugrees .

Eventually, we reached home , wet , shivering with achy bones at around 9: 30  pm. 

Our lunch that had been saved for us , was heated up. We were changed into dry, clean clothes and we tucked into hot home made food, with gratitude and thankfulness . All these years later, I still remember the menu  . We had broad bean curry, yellow dal and rice . We also had hot rotis . We were so famished . 


But Dadu had kept his cool and with his wisdom and persistence, brought three of us kids safely home. 

Although, my grandmother's indigo bag had run colour after getting wet and had coloured the edges of all our new books in a blue badge of honour. Anyone asking us about the strange colour on the book edge would be regaled with this amazing tale of survival. 


Tuesday, 18 November 2025

Fishmonger

 The road is just the front .

When you stop and peer into the shop , the bottom drops off, and so does your jaw .

The floor of the shop is a slanting slope , on the sides of which , gravity defying wicker baskets and white insulation boxes , are kept . White boxes of thermocol keep fish and other perishable items as advertised on the shop sign outside .

There is a chopping board , which is a large tree stump , bearing thousand knife cuts , but scrubbed clean and covered with a muslin cloth . An array of large sharp knives next to the chopping board , declare the wares of the shop , amply .

A covered dustbin is inadequate to disguise the odours from the offals and a sleepy , one eyed and one eared dog , at the doorway , gives me a mildly interested glance . As if he knew that more visitors mean more and fresh offals .

A couple of knowing crows sat on the high tension wire , high up , outside , keeping a watchful eye , while pretending to look elsewhere .

There is no one inside . I mean humans .

A cage full of poultry sitting quietly , occasionally letting out a piteous squawk of protest .

The walls comprise of old sarees hung to keep the breeze out , which , of course , makes its way in via billowing thin fabric . A reinforcement of beaten tin sheets pathetically rattling with each gust .

Another older sign inside the tin roofed hutment declared this to be a " Non vegetarian paradise " that specialised in selling you " chicken , mutton , eggs and fish " .

In the landlocked region we live in , white thermocol boxes herald the arrival of fish . Specially on the lookout are people raised in the coastal regions , like Bengal , whose ancestors have thrived on fish for generations .

Responding to a call older than myself probably , I found myself clearing my throat at the entrance to this unique shop , where the meagre act of selling your wares will entail a mountain climbing of sorts . I was wondering which muscular and long legged powerful being is about to emerge from behind those billowing saree curtains , when a tiny boy emerged .

Standing at the base , he looked puny , positively fragile .

Fair and clear skinned , he wore a striped white shirt , crumpled but clean , dark pants , a clean pair of chappals and his hair was oiled and slickly combed .He had obviously , dressed up for work . Like a proper adult shopkeeper .

"Kya chahiye ?" He asked , with proper respectful intonation , striding up the slope with ease and long strides .

Upon hearing my reply, he nimbly climbed down to the valley , and started displaying his wares .

Expecting some adult to emerge any moment from a slit in the saree , I kept looking right and left , as I negotiated the perilous path downhill . There were strategically placed pieces of brick to resemble crude steps , but they seemed too tiny for my broad , sneakered feet .

Out of sheer force of habit , I asked " Isn't there an anyone around ?"

I regretted the question immediately . The boy , possibly used to this question , didn't answer me . He just proceeded to show me his wares .

I chose a golden scaled rohu , a delicacy .

Climbing past me , he swiftly weighed it and declared the weight .

Then , proceeded to clean and chop it up in perfect pieces with what can only be described as professional finesse.

He had , obviously , been doing this for a long time .

A gentleman , standing behind me , reeking of bidi smoke, asked "How old are you ?"

"13" . He replied precisely .

The dog , lazily opened his remaining eye and stared at the bidi smoker , as if saying "Seriously ? You had to ask that ?"

Midway through processing the fish , he got up and sharpened his chopping knife , with a sharpening tool , secreted in the derelict tin wall .

As I carried my expertly double bagged fare , the gaze of the crows followed me .

I wondered what family exigency had transformed this kid into an adult .

Making him a bread winner at a time when boys his age are learning the spelling of bread .